Tag: Chalk paint

#36 French country-style chairs

Materials used: Primer, chalk paint, clear wax, hardboard, upholstery fabric.

What attracted me to these chairs was the inlaid panels in the backrests. I knew if I could remove them it was an opportunity to have a little fun with some fabric I wanted to use.

First I had to make sure I could remove the “wooden tile”, inlaid panels. There were four all together: one in the front and back of each chair’s backrest. Sure enough they came out easily, as you can see in this 9-second video.

I then gave the frames a good clean, and sanded out a few dings.

After a couple of coats of primer, I applied three coats of chalk paint. I call this color Vintage Paris Grey; it’s a blend of leftover paints with those names. The paintwork was finished with two coats of Behr clear wax.

When the frames were done, it was time to tackle the upholstery. I started with the backrest panels. My handy husband cut four pieces of hardboard to fit the spaces. With spray glue I attached a thin piece of batting to each, then wrapped them in the upholstery fabric.

I re-attached the newly upholstered panels to the frames using Loctite mirror, marble and granite adhesive.

Under the old fabric the original seat pads were in such great shape I could re-use the foam and batting. I was even able to recycle the black cambric. With the old fabric as my pattern, I cut the new material, making sure to match the patterns on the two seats. I then covered the seat pads with the new fabric, and re-attached the black cambric. Then it was just a matter of attaching the new seat pads to the frames.

#31 The Sophia desk

Transformation expense: About $35

This was my first transformation done with an apprentice and it was a baptism of fire for 9-year old Sophia! By the end we had applied eight coats of paint and wax to this piece! The hurdles we had to overcome were good teaching moments, and the end result was well worth all the effort. My design inspiration was a refinished piece by The Resplendent Crow.

This desk is solid wood, and has some decent joinery, but had also seen its fair share of wear and tear.

Rolling up her sleeves, Sophia got to work cleaning the desk inside and out. We then sanded and used wood filler to repair the biggest imperfections, including a crack in the top.

Sophia chose a beautiful, pale blue color (Permafrost) for the Behr Chalk Paint. We applied the first coat and immediately ran into two serious problems: 1) When the desk was moved, the crack in the top re-opened and 2) Stain from the sanded surface was bleeding through the paint causing yellowing.

Fixing the recurring crack was made harder because the top could not be removed (a couple of wood wedges were gluing it firmly in place). To install a metal bracket across the joint I had to drill pilot holes down through the desktop because I couldn’t get a drill in from the underside. Once the stabilized crack and pilot holes were filled and sanded, we could move on to problem #2.

A couple of coats of Kilz oil-based primer sealed the surface and prevented any further bleeding of the stain.

Now we could go back and apply three coats of the beautiful pale blue chalk paint.

When the painting was finished we decided to take this desk to the next level by adding some stenciling to the top.

Two coats of clear wax give protection and a beautiful sheen to the finish.

Tea break!

Finally we were ready for the finishing touches: We removed all the painter’s tape, polished the whole surface to a lovely sheen, and re-installed the hardware, which had been cleaned and painted in Rust-Oleum white semi-gloss spray paint.

#22 Queen bed

Transformation cost: $30.07 (disclaimer at bottom of page)

Ordinarily I would not take on a piece this big due to space restraints. However when my son moved into a student apartment, taking his bed with him, we found ourselves with a guest bed void at the same time that a neighbor was discarding this piece. It turns out this bed has a delightful history: Apart from being the owner’s childhood bed it also accompanied her and her husband to England when he was stationed there for a while. It seems fitting for an Englishwoman to be responsible for its make-over.

Step 1: The habitual cleaning.

Step 2: Sanding. Although sanding is not necessary when using chalk paint, this piece had some chips and dents that I wanted to smooth out.

Step 3: Painting. Once the piece was properly prepped I began applying Annie Sloan’s Paris Grey chalk paint.

Step 4: Distressing. After 3 coats of chalk paint I used fine sandpaper (400 grit) and a light touch to GENTLY distress the contoured parts of the bed. I deliberately was not heavy handed because I want this piece to look like it belongs in a chateau not a farmhouse.

Step 5: Waxing. I then applied 2 coats of clear wax, buffing after each coat. The piece now has a lovely waxy sheen instead of a flat finish. Isn’t it amazing how different this grey looks in the morning light?

The very last thing I did was to go back with some dark wax to add a trace more texture. You can barely see the darker wax which was my intention; again I didn’t want it looking too rustic. Applying dark wax so lightly is not as straightforward as you might think. When it first goes on it is very distinct. The way to cut it back is to have some clear wax and a clean, dry cloth on hand. Once the dark wax is on use a different brush to apply clear wax on top and blend. If there is still more distinction than you want take the cloth and simply rub it off until you get the coverage you want.

DISCLAIMER: The cost shown above is the cost to me which (especially on chalk paint projects) is often less than market price. This is because I always have left-over materials from previous projects. For example: On this piece I used a negligible amount of Annie Sloan dark wax that I already had. The cost of a small can of that wax is $17 but I did not factor it into this project.

#21 Hekman coffee table

Transformation cost: $20.50

When a neighbor was discarding this table I almost didn’t take it because it is large and heavy and I was short on storage space. I’m glad I changed my mind because it is going to be perfect for the large living room my son will have in his shared apartment. Also, it’s incredibly robust so will hopefully withstand the wear and tear from four 19-year old boys.

Markings on the underside of the table quickly revealed its distinguished heritage. Despite knowing the manufacturer and serial number, my internet searches for more information have been fruitless. However, I will rest with the knowledge that a similar Hekman coffee table would today cost upwards of $500, and that “Now, almost a century old, Hekman is widely recognized as one of America’s premier furniture suppliers.” (excerpt from http://www.hekman.com/our_history)

Removing the worn and damaged finish on the table top was my first priority. Once I had also cleaned the legs with a mild soap solution, the piece was ready for its new finishes.

First was Annie Sloan “Coco” chalk paint. I applied three coats to the legs.

I then sealed the chalk paint with one coat of clear wax. Once it was dry and buffed, I applied a second coat of clear wax, followed by Annie Sloan dark wax. By working the brush and using more clear wax as needed, I got exactly the look I was going for. Once it was dry, I finished by buffing the legs one more time.

For the table top I began by applying a coat of MinWax stain & polyurethane in honey satin. I had intended to finish the piece with one or two more coats of this product, but changed my mind. I so liked the look of it after just one coat I decided to switch to an oil-based, clear, satin polyurethane to finish the job.

Two coats of clear, satin polyurethane gave the piece the protection and sheen it needed

5 things I’ve learned about chalk painting

Although I’ve been painting walls and furniture almost all my life I’m a beginner when it comes to chalk paint. It turns out that applying chalk paint (as long as it’s not to a glider rocker) is some of the most fun I’ve had in a long time. Here are some top tips I’ve already learned:

Disclaimer: These observations are made humbly in the knowledge that there are about a gazillion people out there with tons more chalk painting expertise. Some, if not all, of this might not apply to larger, more complex projects.

1. Invest in a good brush

So you won’t be picking bristles out of your paint job every 10 seconds.

2. Use a wax brush

Even though you might read that chalk paint can be applied with any brush just go ahead and use a wax brush. Trust me.

UPDATE: Since this was originally posted nearly 2 years ago I have used both a regular brush and a roller to apply chalk paint. Both worked perfectly well; a roller works particularly well on large, flat surfaces such as the Sophia desk. So now you have to ask yourselves if you can really trust me at all!

3. Work it

Now you’re ready to apply the paint, it’s time to unleash your inner child. Using your lovely rounded wax brush you’re going to want to work that paint into every nook and cranny in a process I can best describe as daubing. Cast your mind back to preschool when you stood in front of an easel, wearing a cute apron and holding a big, fat paintbrush ready to paint your best sunflower. Now daub! About the only thing you can do wrong here is to cause runs by applying too much paint so just don’t overload your brush.

4. Don’t stop at 2

The first coat will look crappy. You will again be reminded of your preschool days. The second coat will look so good in comparison you will think you’ve nailed it. Don’t stop, though; go ahead and apply a third coat. You won’t regret it.

5. Wax on, wax off

Chalk paint needs a protective finish. Although there’s no law written that it must be wax, I like to finish my chalk paint projects with 2 or 3 coats of wax. If you just want to enhance the color then use a clear wax. If you want to add contrast or highlight features in the wood then use a pigmented wax (but still start with a coat of clear wax; it makes the pigmented wax easier to work with) . The more sheen you want, the more you need to buff each coat after it has dried.

  • DecoArt clear wax on Annie Sloan’s English Yellow
  • DecoArt white wax on DecoArt Artefact chalk paint
  • Annie Sloan’s dark wax on Annie Sloan’s Coco

#19 Glider rocker with ottoman

Transformation cost: $73.51 (which includes $16.21 for the throw pillow)

Without doubt this was the most challenging and time consuming project I have worked on so far. Were it not for these two things I might have quit: 1) I had a special client: A dear friend’s daughter who is expecting the family’s first grand-baby 2) I never quit! I’m really a very stubborn person and when I start something I am pretty determined to see it through. There were times when I wasn’t sure I could finish it in time or to the standard I like to set. In the end my perseverance paid off and when it all came together I finally fell in love with the piece.

When I saw that a neighbor was discarding this furniture set I quickly thought of my friend’s expectant daughter. A little research showed that it was a project worth doing; a similar piece by this manufacturer would retail for >$400.

Apart from worn out cushion covers, some slats missing from the ottoman, and some scuffed paintwork, the piece was generally in good condition. The only repair it needed was to a crossbar on the chair.

The theme for this piece was to be “Winnie The Pooh” with a yellow, gray and white color scheme. In the end I went with Annie Sloan chalk paint (not the paint pictured here) in English Yellow.

First order of the day was a thorough cleaning with a weak soap solution. Although you don’t have to sand a surface before applying chalk paint I did smooth out some blemishes in the paint finish and sand the very polished factory finish on the arms of the chair.

It transpired that painting a glider rocker and ottoman is nigh on impossible. Fortunately I’m always up for a challenge but my resolve did waver as I painstakingly applied coat after coat after coat. Fortunately by the third coat (which I applied with a wax brush rather than the regular paintbrush I had been using) I got the uniform look I was aiming for.

But the ordeal was not over! I still needed to add 2 coats of clear wax to give protection and a lovely sheen to the finish.

Once the painting was complete my husband added the slats that were missing from the ottoman

To replace the cushion covers I used the old, unpicked covers as a pattern guide for the new fabric. A brand new throw pillow in the feature fabric brings together all the colors of the piece.

#10 Oak end table

Transformation cost: $37.39

I was a chalk paint virgin, I admit it! I know, any self-respecting person who’s been DIYing (that is a verb, right?) as long as I have should have used chalk paint a gazillion times by now but, what can I say?,
I guess I’m just late to the party. Anyway, with this piece it was time to venture into chalk paint territory. It was quite a departure for me; I pride myself in being a meticulous painter, and I can lay off like the best of them. After watching numerous Annie Sloan tutorial videos I went to work. Applying chalk paint was like going back to preschool; with a cylindrical brush I slapped it on in every direction, stabbing at it to get into all the nooks and crannies, being careful not to apply too much or to have any drips or runs. After the first coat it looked like the paint and the table had got into a brawl but after the second coat a lovely, flat, uniform finish was achieved. Waxing over the paint is the finishing touch to give it protection and a more dimensional look. I’m very happy with how this piece turned out, I will definitely be using chalk paint again!

I began by stripping the finish off the top of the piece to expose the lovely wood grain. It came off so nicely!

Next I color washed the top of the piece with a 1:2 mix of chalk paint:water. I brushed the wash on then removed excess with a rag until I got the depth of color I was looking for.

I then applied 2 coats of chalk paint to the rest of the piece.
At this point I decided I didn’t like how the color washed top looked against the base so I changed tack.

To finish the piece I went over the top with 2 coats of MinWax PolyShades Honey in a satin finish, I applied a coat of clear wax followed by a coat of white wax to the body of the piece, and I installed a new drawer pull.