Tag: Wax

#32 Antique church chairs

Transformation expenses: About $20

I nearly ignored these chairs thinking they were children’s furniture. Thank God I was sufficiently intrigued by the bible backs to pick them up! I quickly discovered they are antique church chairs, probably made in England in the late 19th century. The frames were dirty but in good condition, and responded beautifully to some simple restoration. A replacement plug and some newly woven rush seats completed their transformation to gorgeous accent chairs with a rich history.

It is likely these chairs were made in England by a company called West & Collier. They look just like chair # 112b from the company’s catalogue of the time. West & Collier was founded in 1869 in a village named Frieth in Buckinghamshire, England. The wood is probably elm and the two extra spindles between the back legs would have been for stowing a gentleman’s top hat during service.

The chair frames were dirty but in good condition, while the rush seats were both damaged beyond repair. I began my restoration by removing the old rush and cleaning the frames with a very dilute solution of Simple Green all purpose cleaner.

After cleaning (bottom right), I applied Howard Restor-A-Finish in walnut (top right), and then Howard Feed-N-Wax (bottom left)

With the frames nicely restored I was ready to weave some new fiber rush seats. This was my second time using a technique I learned from an incredible instruction video by Ed Hammond of Peerless Rattan. I chose to not finish the woven rush with shellac because these seats will be indoors.

The final step of this restoration was to replace the missing button top wood plug. I got the part I needed from Widget Co. With a little sanding, I was able to make it fit like a glove and have the more rounded-off look of the originals. Once in place I used a mix of Varathane stains (dark walnut and kona) to give it the right color and antiqued look.

#30 Picture frame jewelry board

Transformation expenses: $35.74

A while ago we hired a dumpster during a landscape project. When neighbors threw in a perfectly good picture frame I grabbed it knowing it would be good for something. Months later some friends and I were browsing quaint shops after a lovely afternoon tea. One friend saw a jewelry board that she particularly liked and I offered to create something similar with this frame.

Keeping costs to a minimum was the biggest challenge on this project. For my design I needed:

  • 5/8″ dowel rod & plywood
  • Leather cord & 1 yd fabric
  • Decorative tacks & cup hooks
  • Wooden decorative appliques

Fortunately I already had these things left over from previous projects:

  • Spray paint
  • Clear, dark & metallic wax
  • Thin batting
  • Beads & craft paper

The frame was rather uninteresting so I embellished it with wooden appliques and a layering of paints and waxes. The frame, appliques and doweling were first painted with Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover in Antique White. I also painted the brass cup hooks with Rust-Oleum Hammered spray paint in dark bronze.

I then applied clear wax, followed by dark wax, followed by Amaco Rub ‘n Buff metallic wax in Spanish Copper.

Meanwhile I wrapped the plywood with thin batting followed by a neutral fabric.

I secured the prepared plywood into the frame using panel pins. I then cut four equal strips of leather cord for hanging earrings. I punched holes in each end of them all and pairs of holes at intervals along two of the strips (for earrings with posts). These were then nailed to the board using decorative tacks and a bead as a spacer. For bracelet storage I attached a length of the painted doweling using the two painted cup hooks. Finally, more decorative tacks function as hangers for necklaces. The back of the frame is finished with craft paper and a pair of D-hooks for hanging.

#27 Antique Jacobean-style chair

Transformation expenses: Frame restoration – $4.84, professional upholstering in leather – $420

This circa 1890s winged armchair was put to the curb at a property that was being flipped. Its transformation was a labor of love. For the first time ever I employed the help of professionals; the re-upholstering of this chair was beyond my capabilities, so after I had transformed the frame, I took it to Budget Upholstery & Fabrics. I would not ordinarily have gone to such great expense but the antique value of this piece made it worthwhile.

Some people reading this might question me refinishing rather than restoring this chair. We’ve seen antique appraisers lamenting over a piece that has diminished in value by being refinished. This was not that type of piece (see below). I’d like to think the original furniture maker would be pleased to know that 120+ years later someone had put so much time and effort into making it functional and beautiful again. Read on for more on its journey from mildewed neglect to fireside treasure.

Peter Cook (executive producer of Antiques Roadshow) wrote: ” Understandably, our Americana experts on the Roadshow live for wonderful old pieces of furniture that have somehow survived in terrific condition …. Most old furniture, of course, doesn’t come close to meeting those standards. On the contrary, most furniture has been well used (even abused), scratched, broken, and often repaired many times. How could such furniture not be improved by a good job of refinishing or restoring? A comparison with a friend’s antique left me in no doubt that this piece was beyond simple restoration. On the left is my friend’s chair which is well preserved and still has its original patina. On the right is this chair which was dull and mildewed in places.

As well as signs of neglect this chair had evidence of poorly applied stain (see brush marks and fingerprints) and at least two different applications of paint (blue & green).

I first cleaned the piece with a mild detergent and then with TSP All Purpose Heavy Duty Cleaner (used by antique restorers). After both cleanings the chair still needed more than just a finish coat. I knew then that I would need to sand it back to the raw wood.

My goal was never to get it looking like new, rather to remove all ingrained dirt/mildew and get it a fairly even color for staining. After many, many hours of painstaking work (using just 220 or 400 grit finishing sandpaper) the sanding was finally complete. The piece still bears a lot of the marks of old age (scratches, dings, traces of old paint) but those all give it character.

Before staining I filled the hairline cracks (probably from water damage) with Plastic Wood Professional Wood Filler. I simply rubbed it in with a (glove-covered) finger, let it dry, then sanded away the excess.

On recommendation from an online appraiser I chose a dark walnut oil-based stain by MinWax. I applied it with a brush then immediately removed any excess with a clean rag.

Despite it saying it “May be stained, sealed, or painted immediately after sanding” I was disappointed the wood filler did not pick up enough of the dark walnut color. The filled cracks were still visible, but thankfully I was able to blend them in with a little Annie Sloan dark wax.

As I began applying the finishing coats of Kilz clear sealing wax, some previously unnoticeable smudges of wood filler appeared (left pic). To fix the problem, I removed the wax with some solvent, sanded again, and re-touched the stain. After the whole frame had two coats of buffed wax and cured for 30 days it was ready to go the upholsterer.

#22 Queen bed

Transformation cost: $30.07 (disclaimer at bottom of page)

Ordinarily I would not take on a piece this big due to space restraints. However when my son moved into a student apartment, taking his bed with him, we found ourselves with a guest bed void at the same time that a neighbor was discarding this piece. It turns out this bed has a delightful history: Apart from being the owner’s childhood bed it also accompanied her and her husband to England when he was stationed there for a while. It seems fitting for an Englishwoman to be responsible for its make-over.

Step 1: The habitual cleaning.

Step 2: Sanding. Although sanding is not necessary when using chalk paint, this piece had some chips and dents that I wanted to smooth out.

Step 3: Painting. Once the piece was properly prepped I began applying Annie Sloan’s Paris Grey chalk paint.

Step 4: Distressing. After 3 coats of chalk paint I used fine sandpaper (400 grit) and a light touch to GENTLY distress the contoured parts of the bed. I deliberately was not heavy handed because I want this piece to look like it belongs in a chateau not a farmhouse.

Step 5: Waxing. I then applied 2 coats of clear wax, buffing after each coat. The piece now has a lovely waxy sheen instead of a flat finish. Isn’t it amazing how different this grey looks in the morning light?

The very last thing I did was to go back with some dark wax to add a trace more texture. You can barely see the darker wax which was my intention; again I didn’t want it looking too rustic. Applying dark wax so lightly is not as straightforward as you might think. When it first goes on it is very distinct. The way to cut it back is to have some clear wax and a clean, dry cloth on hand. Once the dark wax is on use a different brush to apply clear wax on top and blend. If there is still more distinction than you want take the cloth and simply rub it off until you get the coverage you want.

DISCLAIMER: The cost shown above is the cost to me which (especially on chalk paint projects) is often less than market price. This is because I always have left-over materials from previous projects. For example: On this piece I used a negligible amount of Annie Sloan dark wax that I already had. The cost of a small can of that wax is $17 but I did not factor it into this project.

#21 Hekman coffee table

Transformation cost: $20.50

When a neighbor was discarding this table I almost didn’t take it because it is large and heavy and I was short on storage space. I’m glad I changed my mind because it is going to be perfect for the large living room my son will have in his shared apartment. Also, it’s incredibly robust so will hopefully withstand the wear and tear from four 19-year old boys.

Markings on the underside of the table quickly revealed its distinguished heritage. Despite knowing the manufacturer and serial number, my internet searches for more information have been fruitless. However, I will rest with the knowledge that a similar Hekman coffee table would today cost upwards of $500, and that “Now, almost a century old, Hekman is widely recognized as one of America’s premier furniture suppliers.” (excerpt from http://www.hekman.com/our_history)

Removing the worn and damaged finish on the table top was my first priority. Once I had also cleaned the legs with a mild soap solution, the piece was ready for its new finishes.

First was Annie Sloan “Coco” chalk paint. I applied three coats to the legs.

I then sealed the chalk paint with one coat of clear wax. Once it was dry and buffed, I applied a second coat of clear wax, followed by Annie Sloan dark wax. By working the brush and using more clear wax as needed, I got exactly the look I was going for. Once it was dry, I finished by buffing the legs one more time.

For the table top I began by applying a coat of MinWax stain & polyurethane in honey satin. I had intended to finish the piece with one or two more coats of this product, but changed my mind. I so liked the look of it after just one coat I decided to switch to an oil-based, clear, satin polyurethane to finish the job.

Two coats of clear, satin polyurethane gave the piece the protection and sheen it needed

#19 Glider rocker with ottoman

Transformation cost: $73.51 (which includes $16.21 for the throw pillow)

Without doubt this was the most challenging and time consuming project I have worked on so far. Were it not for these two things I might have quit: 1) I had a special client: A dear friend’s daughter who is expecting the family’s first grand-baby 2) I never quit! I’m really a very stubborn person and when I start something I am pretty determined to see it through. There were times when I wasn’t sure I could finish it in time or to the standard I like to set. In the end my perseverance paid off and when it all came together I finally fell in love with the piece.

When I saw that a neighbor was discarding this furniture set I quickly thought of my friend’s expectant daughter. A little research showed that it was a project worth doing; a similar piece by this manufacturer would retail for >$400.

Apart from worn out cushion covers, some slats missing from the ottoman, and some scuffed paintwork, the piece was generally in good condition. The only repair it needed was to a crossbar on the chair.

The theme for this piece was to be “Winnie The Pooh” with a yellow, gray and white color scheme. In the end I went with Annie Sloan chalk paint (not the paint pictured here) in English Yellow.

First order of the day was a thorough cleaning with a weak soap solution. Although you don’t have to sand a surface before applying chalk paint I did smooth out some blemishes in the paint finish and sand the very polished factory finish on the arms of the chair.

It transpired that painting a glider rocker and ottoman is nigh on impossible. Fortunately I’m always up for a challenge but my resolve did waver as I painstakingly applied coat after coat after coat. Fortunately by the third coat (which I applied with a wax brush rather than the regular paintbrush I had been using) I got the uniform look I was aiming for.

But the ordeal was not over! I still needed to add 2 coats of clear wax to give protection and a lovely sheen to the finish.

Once the painting was complete my husband added the slats that were missing from the ottoman

To replace the cushion covers I used the old, unpicked covers as a pattern guide for the new fabric. A brand new throw pillow in the feature fabric brings together all the colors of the piece.

#10 Oak end table

Transformation cost: $37.39

I was a chalk paint virgin, I admit it! I know, any self-respecting person who’s been DIYing (that is a verb, right?) as long as I have should have used chalk paint a gazillion times by now but, what can I say?,
I guess I’m just late to the party. Anyway, with this piece it was time to venture into chalk paint territory. It was quite a departure for me; I pride myself in being a meticulous painter, and I can lay off like the best of them. After watching numerous Annie Sloan tutorial videos I went to work. Applying chalk paint was like going back to preschool; with a cylindrical brush I slapped it on in every direction, stabbing at it to get into all the nooks and crannies, being careful not to apply too much or to have any drips or runs. After the first coat it looked like the paint and the table had got into a brawl but after the second coat a lovely, flat, uniform finish was achieved. Waxing over the paint is the finishing touch to give it protection and a more dimensional look. I’m very happy with how this piece turned out, I will definitely be using chalk paint again!

I began by stripping the finish off the top of the piece to expose the lovely wood grain. It came off so nicely!

Next I color washed the top of the piece with a 1:2 mix of chalk paint:water. I brushed the wash on then removed excess with a rag until I got the depth of color I was looking for.

I then applied 2 coats of chalk paint to the rest of the piece.
At this point I decided I didn’t like how the color washed top looked against the base so I changed tack.

To finish the piece I went over the top with 2 coats of MinWax PolyShades Honey in a satin finish, I applied a coat of clear wax followed by a coat of white wax to the body of the piece, and I installed a new drawer pull.